Building a repeatable golf swing

It would be nice if we could have the same golf swing every time; right down the middle of the fairway with perfectly judged distance. This would be a little like having Christmas every day though, and some of the fun aspects of golf's unpredictability would be taken away (although the whole 'winning lots of money at tournaments' thing might never get old). Although we must accept the fact that no two golf swings will ever be exactly the same, there are ways to make the golf swing more 'repeatable' so that one can play with more accuracy and consistency.

It's important to start with the small stuff. In other words, if you're having problems getting the middle of the putter's face on the ball, there is very little chance that you're making good contact on a full swing with a driver. This is one of the reasons that a beginning golfer should start by learning the putting stroke and learn how to hit the ball on the sweet spot of the clubface with some regularity before moving on.

After a beginning golfer has become acclimated with the putting stroke and feels comfortable with ball contact, they should move on to the chip shot (shots just off the green), assuring that they 'brush the clubhead through the grass at the same place every time'. If the clubhead does not 'brush' the grass somewhat aggressively, the ball cannot get up in the air (thin shots that shoot over the green will be the likely outcome). Practice by sticking two tees in the ground and brush the grass between the tees with the clubhead (with no ball present), mimicking a chip shot. Remember to keep the eyes on the target spot until after the stroke has been completed (think 'process, not result').

Next comes the pitch shot (shots between a chip shot and a full swing). Again, the golfer must brush the grass when making this swing, ideally taking a small divot out of the turf (remember that the divot should always come just after ball contact, assuring that a descending blow on the ball has been achieved). At the point of the backswing where the shaft of the club is parallel to the ground and the hands are by the hip, the shaft should also be parallel (right in between) to the target line and the foot line. The toe of the club should point directly up in the air so that the leading edge of the clubface is on a ninety degree angle to the ground. At the point of the follow through where the shaft of the club is parallel to the ground, the same holds true (shaft parallel to the target line and the foot line with the toe of the club pointing directly up in the air. Getting good at pitch shots builds an incredibly good foundation for the full swing.

Finally, the full swing. Fortunately, the pitch shot is just a short version of the full swing, so if a golfer is getting the club in the proper positions on a pitch shot, they are (almost) halfway home, because the toe-up/ toe-up positions remain true on the full swing. So, after the club is brought back to the parallel to the ground 'toe-up' position, the club should continue back so that the butt end of the grip is pointed along the target line behind the ball. The club need not travel much further back than this. However, if the club does continue back so that it is again parallel to the ground at the top of the backswing, then the club should again be parallel to the toe line and target line. If the club points towards the target line at this position it is called 'coming across the line'. If the club is pointing away from the target line at this position it is called 'having the club laid off'. The clubhead should contact the ball on a descending blow for every club except the driver (remember the more lofted the club, the bigger the divot should be). Again, the same positions hold true on the follow through, but at the finish the club is brought further up as the golfer turns towards the target.

It's a good idea to practice the full swing positions regularly. Standing on balance pods and holding each position for a few seconds will impart them into the muscle memory and improve proprioception (awareness of where body parts are at any given moment).

Remember that getting in the right positions means nothing if you aren't hitting the ball on or around the sweet-spot of the clubface, so good contact is always the priority. Get comfortable with making good contact on a small scale and consistent ball striking will be easier to accomplish for every shot.

How to score in the rain

Don't let the nasty weather keep you inside on the couch. You can still have fun on the golf course on a rainy day, and even score well if you come prepared and know how to adjust your game to the conditions. Here are some ways to get a good golf score on a rainy day:

Gear up

Staying dry is obviously very important. Invest in some good rain gear and waterproof golf shoes, pack a couple extra gloves in your bag, an extra towel or two, and don't forget your umbrella.

Swing easy

Chances are, a little bit of moisture will get on the grips of your golf clubs on a rainy day. The harder you swing, the more likely the grip will slip in your hands, making it difficult to square up the clubface at contact and release the clubhead down the target line. Swing with a slower tempo and make every effort to maintain a consistent grip pressure throughout the swing.

Utilize the umbrella

When you arrive at your ball and take a club out of your bag, place the butt end of the umbrella inside your bag so that it protects the clubs from getting wet. Keeping the grips dry is job one in the rain.

Play the ball further back in your stance

Chances are, if it's rainy, it's also windy. You'll want to keep the ball on a low trajectory to lessen the wind's impact on the ball flight. The easiest way to do this is to play the ball a couple inches further back in your stance to de-loft the club a bit and keep it low in the air.

Aim right for the pin on approach shots

When the course is wet, you can aim right for the pin on approach shots and pitch shots (rather than having to judge 'roll to the hole' after the ball lands). This makes it possible to take dead aim with the confidence that the ball will not roll much (if at all) after it lands. Avoid playing any 'bump and run' type of shots toward the green as it will be too difficult to judge how soft the turf is.

Take a bigger putting stroke than usual

Wet greens will slow the putts down considerably. Get a feel for the speed of the greens on the practice hole before your round so that you are better prepared to judge your distance control. A ten foot putt on a rainy day could require a twenty foot stroke.

Avoid sand traps at all costs

Wet sand is extremely difficult to hit out of because it's very hard to judge how the ball will come out of the trap. A much bigger, faster swing is required in order to get the leading edge of the club down and through the wet sand. So, aim away from the traps, even if this means aiming well away from the pin on approach shots to guarantee you don't end up in the wet beach.

Take an extra club

The ball will not travel as far in wet conditions (especially if it's also cold out). Take an extra club or two in order to reach your intended landing spot. This will also lend to swinging easier and maintaining light grip pressure, as when we try to 'kill' the ball we grip too tight in an effort to will the ball further along.

Hit the ball first

It is absolutely imperative to contact the ball before the turf on rainy days. If any turf is hit before the ball, the speed of the swing will be slowed down drastically (the wetter the conditions, the more dramatically the club will be slowed down by the turf). Therefore, place the hands a little more ahead of the clubhead at address, play the ball a bit further back, and swing a bit steeper than usual.

Bring a towel to the green with you

When walking on to the green and preparing to putt, make sure and bring a small towel on to the green with you so that you can mark your ball and clean/ dry it before setting it back down. Chances are good that there will be mud or sand on the ball that needs to be cleaned off, if not just moisture. Give the putter face a swipe with the towel before putting, too.

Follow this advice for better scores on rainy days, and have fun out there!

Why take lessons?

To a beginning golfer, the golf swing is a mysterious, unpredictable creature that rears its head often and attacks at will. Confusing, confounding, and consistently inconsistent. The negative feedback one experiences when starting this game dramatically and disproportionally outweighs the positive. Most people who effort to learn the game on their own completely abandon it after a couple of attempts on the course, due to shots that veer every direction, dribble ten yards forward off the tee, or, (worst case scenario) are completely 'whiffed'.

The golf swing is difficult to learn, because it is a complex action involving many moving body parts that must all work in perfect harmony in order to achieve a proper strike on the ball. It is easier to learn the swing as a child, because the club is heavier in their arms and they are forced to make the correct weight transfer. However, when taking up the game as an adult, it's important to take a series of lessons and learn the fundamentals of golf (grip, stance, alignment, ball position, posture, tee-height, swing physics, ball flight laws, etc.). The more one can become 'a student of the game', the more success they will experience and the earlier they will experience it.

Many students come to a lesson unsure of what they hope to achieve. They just want to 'get better'. It is important to have a goal and a purpose when taking a lesson (or a series of lessons). Even if the goal is as simple as: "to get good enough to feel comfortable playing nine holes with my spouse", having something to strive for will make one practice with purpose.

The student's role during a lesson:

Obviously, one should try to absorb as much information during a lesson as possible. It is important to ask a lot of questions, with the confidence that there are no 'stupid questions' when it comes to the learning process. Everyone has a different 'learning style'. A lesson that an instructor shares with one person might not make sense to another. Consequently, the teacher needs to hear from the student that what they are saying doesn't make sense and and to please explain it in a different way. Fortunately, there are many different methods used to teach the same thing, so a qualified instructor should have no problem custom tailoring the lesson to any student's needs.

An instructor will not care much about 'what the ball does when hit' during a lesson. They are more concerned with the student making the correct body motions and getting the club in the proper positions. The teacher may not even be looking at the ball because they are focused on what the body is doing. Therefore, the student need not be overly consumed with successfully striking the ball or getting it close to the target. This should free them up do just 'let things happen' rather than tensing up and worrying about poor performance. This free swinging, easy going attitude will set the stage for a conducive learning environment and allow the student to absorb more good information.

Taking notes is never a bad idea. If the student can approach the lesson like they would any other 'class' that they pay for and want to get the most out of, they are more likely to improve their game. So, what would one do during any other class besides a golf lesson? Probably take notes, ask questions, refer back to the notes, and, most importantly: DO THEIR HOMEWORK! Yes, this means practice. As is true when taking a class in college or any other forum, more time should be spent doing homework (practicing) than was actually spent in class. On average, a student should expect to practice about two hours for every half-hour lesson they take. The closer to the actual lesson that they can practice, the better, as the information will still be 'fresh'.

If a student does not practice what they learned during a lesson, they will get worse, not better. When one tragically spends money on a lesson only to get worse, they are not happy campers, and may take out their frustration on the instructor . They need to ask themselves who is really to blame though, because if they didn't practice after their lesson, their mind was so overwhelmed with swing thoughts during an actual round of golf that swinging with any freedom or confidence was probably next to impossible. The student must, MUST practice on their own in order to make the proper changes so that they become ingrained into the muscle memory and are 'automatic' when on the course. In other words, they don't have to 'think' much when playing because the swing changes have already happened during practice sessions.

Controlling distance on pitch shots

Any shot that is too long to be a chip shot (which should be a low, running shot with minimal wrist action) and too short to be a full swing, is classified as a pitch shot. The pitch shot is a short version of the full swing; in other words, we are doing the same things we would do for a full swing, but on a smaller scale.

Most weekend golfers do not practice their pitch shots enough, and as a result they don't have a feel for distance when faced with this shot during a round. This uncertainty leads to poor shots that land well before or well after the pin (or green). Frustration may boil over into the next shot, then the next tee, and so on. It can be extremely defeating to hit a pure drive down the middle, leaving only a little pitch shot into the green, and proceed to hit a bad approach shot that doesn't land anywhere close to the intended target.

First of all, job one is always making sure the face of the club is contacting the ball first (before the clubhead hits the ground, and on the downswing), contacts the ball on the sweet spot of the club, and is kept on a good upright plane. If these things don't happen, then it really doesn't matter how big of a swing is taken because the golfer will have hit the ball fat, thin, off the toe, or off the heel.

Finding a point of reference

Providing the golfer is making good contact on the ball, they should then find a 'point of reference' to help judge distance on pitch shots. I suggest paying particular attention to how big of a backswing you take for a 50 yard pitch shot. Since most courses have 'fifty yard markers' this is a good distance to get used to when practicing. For me, a 50 yard shot requires about a three quarter swing with a 56 degree sand wedge. So, I know that when I'm 50 yards away from the green, I bring the club back enough so that the end of the grip 'points' at the ball, then I know it's time to bring the club back down.

Having this 'point of reference' for a 50 yard shot is good because I know that from 60 yards, my swing should be just a little longer with just a little more shoulder turn and leg action. If I have a 40 yard shot my swing should be a little less than three quarter and I bring my hands back to about waist level rather than up higher where the grip would point at the ball (along with a little less shoulder turn and lower body action).

So, find your own point of reference for a mid-range pitch shot from a particular yardage so that you have a 'go-to' shot from that distance. This will make it easier to know how big of a swing to take from any yardage as you'll know when to lay off or crank it up a bit.

How to cure the 'reverse-pivot'

When a golfer has their body weight moving forward during their backswing and backwards during the downswing and follow through, they are using a 'reverse pivot' in an effort to get the ball in the air. This motion is the exact opposite of what they should be doing, which is loading up their body weight on the rear leg/ foot on the backswing, releasing it towards their front leg/ foot as the club comes down, then fully releasing on to the left side (for a right hander) at the finish. The result of the reverse pivot is generally poor contact, low trajectory, slices, pulls, and weak shots.

Usually, when a golfer does a reverse pivot rather than the proper weight shift, it means that they are trying to help, scoop, lift, or flip the ball up into the air, rather than trusting the loft of the club to do this. The longer a golfer has gone on doing this, the more difficult it is to correct. This is one of the reasons why it's so important to take a series of lessons or find a 'mentor' early on in the learning process. If a golfer comes to me for lessons and they have a reverse pivot, there is a process I go through to correct it.

Start with chip shots

If someone has a reverse pivot in their full swing, I can guarantee they do it when chipping and pitching too. When the reverse pivot golfer hits a chip shot, they have the ball too far forward in their stance, and they use excessive wrist motion (un-hinging the wrists) through contact. They will always finish the shot with their body weight on the rear foot. This type of swing rarely results in good contact because the clubhead will be ahead of the hands at contact (thin shots are most common, but fat shots can creep in too). Also, if the golfer happens to somehow achieve good contact, the ball will fly too high in the air and typically land well short of the hole.

The goal of a chip shot should be to hit the ball on a low, running trajectory that utilizes the roll on the green rather than flight in the air to get the ball close to the hole. In order to do this, the golfer must contact the ball with the hands ahead of the clubhead and the body weight on the lead side of the body. If someone is struggling with this they should hit some chip shots with their left foot planted on the ground and only the tip of the right shoe on the ground. When chipping balls with the body in this position, it is very difficult to have any body weight transfer to the right side of the body (which is the goal of the drill), and the golfer will get the feeling that they are leaning onto their left side a bit. This will result in shots that are hit more crisply, on a lower trajectory, and will also impart a feel for trusting the loft of the club and getting the body weight left.

Walk-through drill

The best drill I know of for curing the reverse pivot in the full swing is the walk-through drill. Simply set up a ball on a driving range mat, take a swing, and right after contact step forward with the rear foot (so that the rear foot passes the front foot and steps towards the target). This is effective because it forces the golfer to get their body weight over to the left side as they release the club. When they make good contact on the ball, they will see that the ball goes higher, flies straighter, and flies further. Gary Player, for years, did this move *on the golf course during rounds*, which speaks volumes about it's value as a drill. He would hit his shot, walk through with the right foot, and just keep on walking towards his next shot, casually flipping his club to his caddie. To the 'reverse pivot' student, this move will feel extremely awkward (because they are actually used to backing away from the target during the follow through) and they will likely experience a great amount of frustration just trying to get the right foot to come forward after contacting the ball. The harder this is for them to do, the greater their degree of reverse pivot. They should stick with it though, because having the body weight coming through the ball rather than away from it is crucial to hitting good shots.

Use analogies with other sports

When throwing a baseball, football, javelin, shot-put, horse-shoe, hitting a tennis ball, rolling a bowling ball, or even skipping a rock, the body weight always comes forward (to the front foot) when executing the follow through. This is always the most effective way of performing each action and will produce the most powerful, efficient result. The golf swing is no different. For some reason, when a new golfer tries to hit a golf ball, they have the urge to try and help the ball into the air rather than perform a natural, athletic motion that should be ingrained through experiences with other sports. They should learn to trust the loft of the club, hit down and through the ball, and finish on the lead side. The 'up on the right toe' drill for chip shots and the 'walk-through' drill for the full swing should help.

Watch more golf on TV and do what the pros do

One of the best ways to improve at golf as a beginner is to watch as many tournaments on TV as possible and try to mimic what the professional golfers do. While most of us won't be able to hit the ball anything like they do, we can definitely get better by trying to incorporate some of their habits and routines into our own regimen. Here are some particular things the pros do during a round of golf that are good to duplicate:

> Approach every shot in golf from behind the ball

Many beginners and high handicappers approach the ball sideways, simply taking their stance and looking at the target before swinging away. This is a really bad way to aim. The pros will approach every shot (be it a putt, drive, chip, approach, bunker shot), from behind the ball - looking straight through to the target. They do this in an effort to determine what their target line is, usually picking distinguishable intermediate targets along that line (leaves, divots, off color blades of grass, etc.) to reinforce that line and make aim easier as they approach the ball. This is an absolute *must* when putting (and anytime else, really) because a break (slope) cannot be read as a golfer is addressing the ball.

> Don't hit driver off every tee

The pros know that accuracy trumps distance every time. You'll see them take a fairway wood or long iron to tee off on many holes. It may be fun to pull out the big dog and wail away at every chance, but it's not conducive to good scores. It's a matter of risk versus reward; if there is a high likelihood that a driver will put a ball in jeopardy of going out of bounds or in a hazard, a pro will always scale down to a safer club. Tiger Woods won the 2006 British Open and only used his driver once the entire tournament. Remember that the more loft a club has, the easier it is to hit because A) it is shorter (swinging on a smaller arc) and B) loft negates sidespin (so a driver will produce the most sidespin and the least backspin of any club).

> Try to swing the club like they do

There is a reason why a pro golfer will never swing with a reverse-pivot or flip their wrists on chip shots. Success is greatly limited when doing either of these things. While all pros have unique swings with different swing planes, tempo, etc., there are certain things that they all generally do the same. Some examples:

-They will finish all shots with their body weight more on the lead side (left side for a right hander) than the trailing side.

-They will keep their wrists firm (not un-hinging) through contact for all shots.

-They will make a full shoulder turn on a full swing, and control all other shots primarily with the turning of the shoulders rather than the arms and hands.

-They will keep the left arm extended on the back and downswings, and the right arm extended on the release.

-They will allow the clubhead to release down the target line without lifting up to look at the ball too early.

-They will keep their head almost perfectly still until the finish.

-They will keep their eyes down on the point of contact until well after contact has been made.

-They will have the right elbow brushing close to the body on the downswing.

-They will finish the swing with their belt-buckle facing the target.

-They will hit low, running chip shots whenever possible instead of high flop shots.

So, pick a favorite golfer that has swing you really admire (it's always been Fred Couples for me) and a swing tempo that looks close to yours. Try to watch them play tournaments at every chance, and incorporate as many of their good golf habits into your game as possible.

Putting a band-aid on common swing problems

Using quick fixes in golf is a bit like using sandbags during a flood. They'll stop the problem for awhile, but eventually something more stable must be instilled. Sometimes though, if a golfer is having the same swing fault during a round (topping, slicing, etc.) they need to make an instant change in order to salvage their score. Here are some quick fixes for common problems on the course:

Slicing (ball curving to the right):

> Aim further left: This is the easiest fix because the golfer need not change their swing, however distance will still suffer and judging the amount of slice can be difficult. Also, setting up for a slice can make a ball slice more than the golfer intended.

> Take a stronger grip: Rotate the hands clockwise on the grip. The further clockwise they rotate, the more the clubhead will rotate through contact, closing the clubface and decreasing the likelihood of a slice. The danger in this one is that the duck-hook is often the result.

> Close the stance: Turn the entire body clockwise at set-up so that the right foot is further back than the left. This will encourage an 'inside the target line to outside the target line' swing path. Since most slicers have an 'over the top' move in their swing and tend to bring the club down on too steep of a plane, closing the stance will flatten it out.

Hooking (ball curving to the left):

> Aim further right: Again, easy fix because the golfer need not change their swing, but sometimes setting up to hit a draw can turn a shot into an ugly hook because too much side-spin is imparted on the ball.

> Take a weaker grip: Rotate the hands counter-clockwise on the grip so that the 'V's' are pointing more towards the chin than the right shoulder. The further they rotate this way, the less the clubhead will rotate through contact, preventing the face of the clubhead from closing and decreasing the likelihood of a hook. A golfer used to taking a strong grip may feel like they are losing control of the clubhead while doing this though, and they must be careful not to change their swing path lest a slice occur.

> Open the stance: Turn the entire body counter-clockwise at set-up so that the left foot is further back than the right and the body is more 'open' to the target. This will encourage an 'outside the target line to inside the target line' swing path (steeper back and down). A lot of folks who hook the ball excessively swing the club on too flat of a plane, and opening the stance will get the shaft on a steeper plane because it will be more difficult to bring the club behind the body.

Topping (hitting too high on the ball and not getting it up in the air)

> Keep the eyes down longer: Topping is often the result of lifting the eyes and body up too early, bringing the clubhead up out of the natural swing plane and contacting the ball too high. One should make sure the eyes stay down on the contact point until well after the ball is struck.

> Hit down on the ball: A golfer must make sure they contact the ball while the clubhead is still on the downswing (for all shots except putting and driving). If they don't, they are hitting it on the upswing, and the clubhead will have already bottomed out on its swing arc. The ball will not get air born when hit in this manner. Moving the ball back in the stance can help with this.

> Make a correct weight transfer: When the golfer tries to 'scoop, lift, or help' the ball in the air, they are falling victim to the 'reverse pivot' (body weight moving towards the front foot on the backswing and towards the back foot on the downswing and follow through, often resulting in the golfer backing away from the target after contact). This move discourages hitting down on the ball and encourages a topped shot. The body weight must come back on the backswing and forward on the downswing/ follow-through in order to achieve proper contact and trajectory. At the end of the swing, the right heel should be raised up, this will indicate body weight has moved to the left.

Chunking (hitting the ball fat/ club contacting turf before the ball)

> Choke down on the grip: This will bring the clubhead down so that it brushes the turf rather than chunks down into it (providing the golfer keeps the same posture). The unfortunate result of this can be topped shots though, so one might choke down just a little rather than excessively.

> Move the ball back in the stance: Will encourage getting the clubhead on to the ball before it contacts the turf. If the golfer keeps hitting fat shots, then their clubhead is contacting the turf before the ball. The ball should be moved back towards the rear foot because that will put the ball in a position that will match the golfers pattern.

> Don't 'dip': Often times those that hit fat shots dip their head down during the downswing, which brings the entire body down and the swing arc under where the clubhead was at address. Every effort should be made to keep the head as still as possible during the backswing and downswing in order to prevent the 'dip'.

These tips should temporarily put a band-aid on a golfer's on-course swing wounds, but after their round they should probably consider a series of lessons with a qualified instructor.

Do not keep your head down!

All shots in golf require a shoulder turn. Putting and chipping call for a small shoulder turn with little to no other body movement (no breaking of the wrists, leg action, hip turn, or weight transfer). Pitch shots, punch shots, flop shots, and greenside bunker shots incorporate a bit of body movement in addition to the shoulder turn. When making a full swing, however, the shoulders should turn enough (ideally) so that the golfer's back faces the target at the top of the backswing and the left shoulder is directly under the chin (for a right handed golfer).

Many golfers are unable to make a full shoulder turn because they have been told to "keep their head down" when they swing. When someone hears this they almost always tilt their head forward so that their chin almost touches their chest. Then when they swing the club back, the chin restricts a full shoulder turn. At this point they are forced to do one of three things: lift their head up out of the way to allow for the shoulders to continue to rotate; slide their head laterally away from the target; or stop the shoulder turn short and complete the backswing by bending the left arm and attempting to control the swing with the arms and hands rather than the turning of the shoulders.

Instead of the disastrous, age-old "keep your head down" advice that many have been practicing, a golfer should keep their head up a bit more, but keep the *eyes* down. When the head is tilted up a bit at address, the golfer can easily allow for the left shoulder to turn under the chin as they swing the club back, without the head moving up, sliding backwards, or restricting the backswing.

Since the head must remain almost perfectly still during the backswing, downswing, and release, the chin must be raised a bit if the golfer hopes to make the appropriate shoulder turn. The head should stay still as the left shoulder nestles under it at the top of the backswing, then remain still as the clubhead contacts the ball and releases towards its intended target. Only when the right shoulder rotates enough so that it is now under the chin should the golfer allow for the head to come up and turn towards the target.

Making a full shoulder turn during the full swing will translate to more accuracy, because it will be easier for the left arm to stay extended through the backswing and downswing rather than excessively bending (thereby making it easier to return the clubhead to the ball, as the golfer will not have to worry about 'un-bending' the left arm at the precise moment of contact). The head will also stay much more still during the swing, which is a must for accurate timing and solid contact.

A full shoulder turn will also equate to more power, because when one makes a full shoulder turn during the backswing they are using their biggest upper body muscles to guide the club rather than their arms or hands; winding up their torso and storing, or 'loading up' energy to be powerfully released on the downswing.

How hand position on the grip determines ball flight

Subtle changes in hand position on the grip can dramatically alter ball flight, so having a sound grip is incredibly important. It is absolutely imperative that the hands are placed on the same spot on the grip every time (unless the golfer is attempting to manipulate a ball flight so that it curves a particular direction in the air - in which case the hands may be moved ever so slightly in order to encourage a draw, fade, slice, or hook).

There seems to be quite a bit of confusion about what is a 'weak' grip and what is a 'strong' grip. Simply put, the more the hands are rotated clockwise on the grip, the stronger the grip. The more the hands are rotated counter-clockwise, the weaker the grip.

A stronger grip will encourage a draw or hook because when the hands are rotated clockwise (with the 'V's' pointing to the right shoulder or to the right of the right shoulder for a right handed golfer) the hands and clubhead will easily rotate through the contact area with the toe leading the heel and the clubface closing. When the clubface contacts the ball in this fashion it will put hook spin (right to left in the air) on the ball.

A weaker grip will encourage a fade or slice because when the hands are rotated counter-clockwise (with the 'V's' pointing to the chin or left of the chin), it will be more difficult to rotate the hands and clubhead through the contact area. Since the face of the club is not rotating through contact, there is less release of the clubhead and more 'holding on' or not allowing the clubhead to turn over. If the clubhead is travelling on a plane that is inside the target line to outside the target line, or straight down the target line, this can result in straight shots. However, if there is any deviation and the clubhead approaches the ball from outside the target line to inside the target line, the face of the club will swipe across the ball and cause a fade or slice.

It all starts with the left hand. The placement of the right hand will always depend on where the left hand is, because the left hand is always the first hand to put on the club. If the thumb of the left hand is (mistakenly) placed right down the center of the grip (pointing directly at the clubface) then the 'V' formed by the thumb and forefinger will be pointing at the chin. No knuckles (aside from the thumb) will be visible.

Since the thumb of the left hand should fit right in the lifeline of the right hand as it is placed on the grip, the right hand is subject to the position of the left (so when the right hand is placed on the grip the 'V' will also point to the chin). Generally speaking, this is too weak of a grip. The placement of the left hand should be rotated a bit more clockwise on the grip so that the thumb is just right of center and the knuckle of the forefinger and middle finger of the left hand are visible. This will get the left hand 'V' pointing towards the right shoulder and the right hand will be placed on top of the left, so that the 'V' is pointing the same direction.

The danger in this strong left hand grip is holding the grip too much in the fingers with the left hand and not enough in the palm. If the golfer holds the grip in their fingers with the left hand, as the clubhead travels through the contact area the palm of the left hand will close the clubface and rotate excessively. If the left hand grip is more in the palm (or along the lifeline), it will be more difficult to excessively rotate the clubface and the golfer will be able to swing freely without the likelihood of hitting a hook.

Similarities between golf and other sports

The golf swing can be very confusing and intimidating to a beginning golfer. While golf is unique in that one doesn't necessarily need to be 'athletically inclined' to be decent at the game, there are many similarities between golf and other sports. Learning about the comparisons between them can help a new golfer understand the swing. Some examples follow.

The golf swing as it relates to a 'pitch' in baseball

When a pitcher is on the mound, they stare right at their intended target just before beginning the windup (or backswing, in golf). As their arm (clubhead) comes back, the body weight begins to load up on the right leg (for a right-hander). The pitcher's arm and ball (or, a golfer's club) reach a transition point. Then, there is a powerful release of body weight over to the left side of the body (which actually begins just before the arm comes all the way back), with the arm and ball (golfer's clubhead) following suit. The pitcher then ends up with all their body weight on the left side of the body (for a golfer it would be about 90% body weight in order to keep the right foot on the ground and balanced on the tip of the right shoe). At the finish, both the pitcher and the golfer should face their intended target, having made a full release and follow through.

The golf swing as it relates to bowling

When a bowler is setting up to roll the rock, they bring the ball back as they are stepping forward. This movement creates more power and ball speed (if it did not, they would simply bring the ball back and through while standing on the line just before the lane). This is like the golf swing in that there is a transfer of body weight (to the left side) beginning before the club has come all the way back to the top of the backswing, creating torque and power on the downswing. As the bowler lunges forward and braces their left foot by the line, the leg must remain very firm, as most of the bowler's body weight will be loading up on it (just like in the golfer's downswing). Additionally, the move a bowler makes in order to put 'english' on the ball (to get it to spin) can help a golfer understand how to hit a draw, because the more the right hand rotates through contact, the more a ball will draw (or spin right to left, in the bowler's case).

The golf swing as it relates to tennis

The analogies between golf and tennis are plentiful. A tennis racket must accelerate through the ball in order to make a good stroke. The head must stay stable with the eyes on the ball as contact is made and the racket (club) releases down the target line. Swinging too hard or out of balance will usually result in the ball going out of bounds. Body weight loads up on the right side on the backswing and to the left on the downswing, then completely left on the follow through. The ball must be hit on the sweet spot, directly in the middle of the racket (clubface). Rolling the racket from an open to a closed position through contact will result in a topspin shot (or a draw in golf). Keeping the wrist and hand firm through contact and not allowing it to close will result in a backspin shot (or a fade in golf). The racket (club shaft) should end up in a high position by the head at the end of the follow through.

One can draw comparisons between golf and almost any other sport (fishing, basketball, hockey, etc.). So, having some experience with other sports can certainly help one learn more about the golf swing (with a little guidance from a teaching professional).

Keeping practice fun

For most people, practicing golf is nowhere near as fun as actually playing the game. However, if you can get creative with your practice regimen you can boost the level on the 'enjoyment-ometer' significantly. I do think it's important to find a partner to practice with whenever possible. Playing by yourself is much more enjoyable than practicing by yourself in my opinion. When you're playing by yourself you can at least play against old man par (or old man double-bogey depending on your level/ goals). So, find a friend with similar golf ability and try the following games.

H-O-R-S-E

Works best on a putting green, and can be played with two or a handful of people. Just like the basketball version, if you make a shot, your partner has to make the same shot or they get a letter. First one to spell HORSE is out of the game. This one is fun to play in a park as well, trying to get balls to hit trunks of trees or land in certain grassy areas.

Play nine on the practice hole

Many practice holes at public golf courses will have miniature flags on the green that are numbered one through nine. So, get your buddy and grab a scorecard, and play nine holes on the putting green. This can be done by starting each 'hole' on the green with a putt or off the green with a chip or pitch shot. Score the game just as you would score an ordinary round of golf. Eighteen holes can be played in less than a half-hour! The pair can also elect to play skins or match play rather than stroke play.

Target shooting on the range

Pick a target on the driving range and try to hit it, then have your partner try to hit it. I like a game where each player has 10 balls and tries to hit each to a specific target, noting 'how many out of ten' hit the target. Obviously this only works if the driving range has target greens to hit or if the 'ball-pickup cart' is parked on the range (even better if someone is driving it around.. moving targets are the best).

Chipping contests

See who can chip or pitch shots closest to a hole, scoring points for each hole (first one to ten wins or something thereabouts). The game can be also played by having to putt out in order to validate the shot (if the player misses the putt, the hole is a push). Additionally, there is a game where tees are placed in a circle around the hole (about eight inches apart) and the players try to putt or chip balls so that the ball stops within the circle. Each time a ball stops in the circle the player gets to remove a tee from the circle and put it in their pocket. Whichever player has the most tees after ten shots wins.

These games can be even better with an adult beverage close at hand. So, get creative with the practice and keep it fun!

The 5 elements of the set-up

There are five primary things a golfer needs to do in order to prepare to hit a golf shot. As a whole they represent the 'set-up' in golf:

1. Grip

2. Alignment

3. Stance

4. Posture

5. Ball position

Grip

The grip is the most important element of the set-up. It is the only thing that connects us to the golf club and it is vital that one has a sound grip with the hands in the proper position. Whether a baseball, overlap, or interlock grip is used, one should pay very close attention to where the hands sit on the grip and assure that they are consistently in the correct spot. Any slight variance in hand position will drastically alter how the face of the club contacts the ball (and consequently alter ball flight).

Alignment

We have to aim correctly, and what may feel like correct aim is very often nothing resembling it. Again, slight variances in aim make a huge difference in where the ball ends up. Mistakenly aim two inches left of the target line and the ball could end up twenty yards left of the intended landing spot. Refer to the 'train track method of alignment' and assure that an intermediate target is used for every shot (an intermediate target is a distinguishable spot along the target line very close to the ball, such as a divot or broken tee - making it easier to aim).

Stance

Stance will differ depending on the club in our hands and the shot we are attempting to hit. For chip shots, the feet should be very close together. Pitch shots and lofted clubs require about a shoulder width stance, and longer clubs require a bit more than shoulder width stance (for balance). A good guideline to follow is the closer to the green, the more narrow the stance. However, greenside bunkers require a bit wider stance (again, for balance) and putting calls for a shoulder width stance.

Posture

Avoid the slouch. The back should be very straight, with a very slight bend in the knees and weight on the balls of the feet. The buttocks should be in a bit of a 'sitting' position with some tension in the hamstrings. The chin should be slightly raised so that the shoulders can turn freely under it during the swing without the head moving. Most beginners seem to set up in too much of a standing position with excessive knee bend. Try to have the grip of the club (for any club aside from the putter) 'pointing' at belt buckle level as a guideline.

Ball position

Ball position is again dependent upon what club being used and what shot being attempted. When putting, the ball should be just forward of center. When chipping, the ball should be played back of center. For all other shots, the ball should be played about off the left cheek (and yes, I'm referring to the cheek on a face) with more lofted clubs just a bit more towards the nose and less lofted clubs a bit more towards the left ear (for right handed golfers). The stance widens a bit with each 'less lofted' club but the ball position should remain approximately off the left cheek.

The importance of learning these elements of the set-up can not be over estimated. One should assure they are consistent across the board with all five segments and have an instructor check them frequently.

Keep it moving

Eighteen holes of golf should not take more than four hours to play, even if you're playing as part of a foursome. Three hour rounds and less are quite possible if the group you're in agrees to play 'Ready Golf' rather than 'Honors Golf'. There are also other ways to speed up the round so that you don't spend half the day on the links (although there are worse places to spend half a day).

Ready golf vs. honors golf

When playing the traditional 'honors golf' style, the player who is furthest from the hole always plays first, then the person second furthest away plays, and so on. Also, the person who got the best score on the previous hole always tees off first, then the second best score, etc. This is the normal way to play during tournaments and official golf events.

When playing 'ready golf' rather than 'honors golf', the player hits the ball when they are ready to hit the ball, regardless of their place in the order. The first person to reach their ball hits away instead of waiting for the player further away from the hole to reach their ball. The same concept holds true on the green, and on the tee-box. There is a much more even flow to 'ready golf' because there is less standing around looking at each other trying to determine who has 'honors'. Cumulative time saved is significant as well, which is the prime benefit.

Line up your putt while others are putting out

Try to read the break of the green and pick your target line while the other players are putting, rather than having to go through the entire pre-shot routine only after they've holed out. Keep in mind that excessively obsessing over reading the break of a putt from all angles is probably not necessary unless you are in a competition or playing for serious money. This holds up play and is irritating to everyone. Also, try to take your practice swings and pick your target line on the tee box and fairway while others are hitting. Less can be more with practice swings, too (take two at the most).

When approaching the green to putt, make sure to place the golf bag as close to the next hole as possible.

There is very little that is more aggravating that following a slow group and watching someone put their bag on the opposite side of the next hole on every green. They have to walk all the way over to their bag after holing out and then walk all the way back over the green to the next hole, meanwhile you could have been hitting your approach shot. Not a big deal if it happens on one hole, but not something to make habitual.

Guys, ease up on flirting with the cart girl

Seriously, she ain't interested in anything but that green stuff in your wallet. I know she's attractive and you've had a few, but it's a little pathetic and the group behind you is starting to tap their feet.

And ladies, there is a time to get together and talk and it shouldn't be during the round. Hit the nineteenth hole afterwards and gab away.

Hopefully following this advice will get you around in less time because hey, time is precious!

Get dirty

Ben Hogan said it best when he famously stated: "The Secret is in The Dirt."

Whenever possible, a golfer should practice their swing on actual turf rather than on a driving range mat (artificial turf). There are several reasons why and I will go through each.

A driving range mat is deceiving

You don't need to make perfect contact with the ball when hitting off a mat. If the clubhead contacts the ground before the ball, it will 'glide', or 'bounce' off the mat and often contact the ball so that it produces a decent shot. If this same thing happens when hitting off the grass, the turf will rob the clubhead of most of its speed, chunking a divot out of the ground before the ball and likely only dribbling the ball a few yards forward. When hitting balls off the grass, a ball must be hit with much more precision. Since we play golf on the grass, not a huge driving range mat, it is best to replicate actual playing conditions whenever possible.

A driving range mat does not tilt

If a range mat did tilt (and there may be driving ranges with this technology that I am unaware of) it would be much more similar to an actual golf course. On nearly every shot hit during a round of golf (aside from the tee shot) there will be some degree of an uphill lie, a downhill lie, a sidehill like, or some combination of two angles. Rarely will a shot be perfectly aligned to our stance once we are off the tee. When practicing on actual turf we can usually find some uphill, downhill, or sidehill lies to hit from.

A driving range mat does not have rough

It would be nice if each shot we hit ended up in a perfectly manicured fairway, sitting up nicely so that we could glide the clubhead smoothly through the ball. Not the case. We must play the ball as it lies (in most cases), often deep in long grass or sitting in a divot. There is no way to duplicate all of the different types of shots on a range mat. On the course, one must hit down crisply on the ball, with the clubhead moving down into the ground after contact (for iron shots). This is not as important off the mat.

Find a local park (as long as you aren't violating park rules), a practice hole at the local municipal course, or some open field, get a shag bag, and get a feel for hitting all clubs off the turf (aside from the putter and driver). When you do visit the driving range, focus more on practicing shots off the tee. This will be a more realistic method, duplicating actual tee shots.

Some good putting drills

There are several good putting drills that can help you improve with the flat stick. Here are a few that I use in my instruction.

Putt to the fringe

Drop balls on different areas on the green and putt towards the fringe, trying to get the ball to stop right in the fringe. This drill helps a golfer get a good sense of distance control without focusing on a specific target such as a golf hole.

Three clubs on the ground

Lay three clubs on the ground. The first two should be about six inches apart from each other (parallel) and pointing towards the hole (this works best for straight putts). The other club should be parallel to the other two, and touching the tips of the golfer's feet as they set up. Putt balls in between the first two clubs towards the hole. This teaches the player to get the clubhead going straight back and straight through along the target line (because otherwise the clubhead will hit the shaft of one of the clubs on the ground) and also how to set up with the feet parallel left of the target line.

3,6,9,12

Place four balls down in a straight line. The first ball should be about three feet away from the hole, the second about six feet, the third about nine feet and the fourth about twelve. Try to putt the balls in the hole, starting with the three footer, then the six footer, and so on. If any putt is missed, the golfer must 'start over' with the three footer. Only when all balls are made should the golfer move on to the next drill. This teaches distance control on a small to medium length scale and puts a little pressure on the player to make the longer putts.

Circle the hole

Place eight to ten balls in a circle around the hole, with each ball a few feet away from the hole. Walk around the circle and attempt to make each putt. This will make the golfer more comfortable with shorter putts and build confidence. They will get a sense of playing small variances in the break of the green as well. Focus should be on keeping the head still and putting the ball with enough pace so that it hits the back of the cup.

Lean a club on the leg

Putt balls to the hole with a club leaning on either leg. Try to keep the lower body completely still during the golf stroke so that the leaning club does not move. If the club moves, the golfer has used lower body motion during the putt (a no-no). Lower body motion during a putt makes distance control more difficult to gauge.

Putt to a tee or a ball

Instead of putting to the hole, putt to a tee (pushed into the ground on the putting surface), or another golf ball. After a bit of practice doing this, putt to a hole again and notice how much bigger the hole seems. This will help a golfer putt on the target line with greater accuracy.

Look for the black dot

After a ball is hit on the green, a 'black spot' where the ball used to be is visible for a split second. Putt the ball then look for the black spot on the ground before looking at where the ball is going. This will train the player to keep the eyes down until after contact, an absolute must for good putting. This drill is most valuable on short putts, when the desire to lift the eyes up too soon is the greatest.

Try these drills and hopefully your putting will improve. Remember to keep it fun and challenge yourself.

Why more lofted clubs are easier to hit

The more degree of loft on a golf club, the easier it is to hit. Not only is it easier to make consistent contact, but there is also a greater likelihood of the ball going straight. For these reasons, a golfer should learn to hit more lofted clubs before they try to learn how to hit less lofted clubs.

Why are the more lofted clubs easier to hit? Number one, the more loft on the clubface, the more backspin will be imparted on the ball. As loft decreases, backspin gives way to sidespin. The sand wedge (lob wedge) has the most loft and therefore creates the highest amount of backspin. It is very difficult to put sidespin on a ball (drawing or fading the ball) with a sand wedge even if the golfer tries to on purpose.

Additionally, shorter clubs are easier to hit, and the more loft on a club the shorter the shaft. Shorter clubs put us closer to the ball at address, allowing us to swing the club on a steep plane (more 'in front' of our body than 'around the back' of it). The club will also swing on a smaller arc which makes the timing easier.

The driver (the least lofted club) is generally the hardest club to hit because if the timing is not perfect (clubface must contact the ball completely square to the target line), a great deal of sidespin will be imparted on the ball and cause it to hook or slice uncontrollably. During a driver swing, the clubhead must travel on the biggest arc of all the clubs, and on the flattest plane of all the clubs. Getting the shaft on the correct plane on the downswing with the driver is a difficult task for most beginning golfers to achieve. They will generally get it too steep on the way down and pull or slice the ball.

While it's true that modern day drivers are easier to hit than they used to be (due to a larger clubface/ sweet spot), mastering the drive can take a lot of time, so it's something a golfer should work towards patiently. It's better to hit an eight iron to the fairway than hitting a driver out of bounds or into a hazard. Get comfortable hitting the more lofted clubs then work through the other clubs one by one, decreasing loft as the swing improves.

How high should you tee the ball?

Teeing up the golf ball is the most overlooked aspect of the set-up. If a golfer is not consistent with the height of their tee (with respect to the club in their hand), both the contact and the flight of the golf ball will be unpredictable.

One should pay as much attention to tee height as they would ball position, or any other part of the set-up (the things a golfer does before they take the swing in order to prepare to hit a shot). Since we only tee a golf ball up once per-hole (on the tee-box, or 'the first shot on each hole' for those unfamiliar with golf terminology), we should make sure to get it right so that there is no guesswork involved.

Tee-height should be different for every club in the bag.

For a short par three hole we would be using a very lofted club such as a pitching wedge or nine iron. When teeing up a ball for these clubs, tee height should be minimal. If the ball is teed up too high with a lofted club there will be a greater chance of the club sliding too far underneath the ball and catching the ball well above the sweet spot on the clubface. So, the tee should be pushed almost all the way into the ground so that the ball is resting barely above the turf. The golfer should treat the shot like an ordinary shot from the fairway, hitting down on the ball and allowing the clubhead to travel into the turf after contact.

For a medium to longer length par three hole, a mid to long iron would be the appropriate club. The tee height on these shots should be just a bit higher than it was with the more lofted clubs because we are not hitting down on the ball quite as dramatically. Since the swing is a bit more of a sweeping motion than a steep descending blow, the clubhead will be travelling 'along the turf' more than down into it. This means the sweet spot on the clubface will be a bit higher than it was with a more lofted club, so the ball is teed just a wee bit higher.

When teeing up a ball for a hybrid club or fairway wood, again, the ball is set just a tiny bit higher than it was with the mid to long irons. As the swing becomes less of a descending blow and more of a sweep (where we are catching the ball as the clubhead reaches the bottom of the swing arc) the ball should be teed up a fraction higher.

Lastly, the driver. When setting a ball on the tee for the big dog, there is a general guideline; set the ball on the tee so that when the driver's clubhead is resting on the ground, half of the ball is visible above the top of the clubhead. The ball is teed up so high with this club because the intent with the driver is to catch the ball on the clubface as the clubhead is just starting to come up from the bottom of the swing arc. In other words, we should hit the driver slightly on the upswing. Also, the sweet spot on a driver is higher on the clubface than it is on the other clubs merely because there is more surface area. The sweet spot on a three-wood might be a half-inch up from the bottom of the clubface, whereas the sweet spot on a driver might be a full inch from the bottom.

Just like every other part of the set-up (grip, stance, alignment, posture, and ball position), the more consistent we are with tee height the more repeatable our swings become.

Putting grip vs. standard grip

Having a proper grip on the golf club is the most important fundamental in golf. An incorrect grip will not only result in poor golf shots, but the longer one goes on golfing without having a proper grip, the more natural that incorrect grip will feel and the harder it will be to feel comfortable with a correct grip.

There are two different ways to grip the club during a round of golf. The putting grip is the first, and the second is for any shot that is not a putt. The putter can be gripped a variety of ways, whereas the other grip should be pretty much the same for everyone. If one grips the club in the 'conventional fashion' when putting (as opposed to a 'claw grip', 'belly-putter grip', or a garden variety of other options), both thumbs should be set flat, vertically, and in the middle of the grip directly in front of the golfer's body, with the back of the left hand and the right palm facing the target line.

Whether the left hand is set lower on the putter grip or the right hand lower is up to the individual. Keep in mind, however, that when PGA professionals are asked the question, "what is the one thing you would have done differently in your career", the majority of them say they wished they would have started putting with their left hand low (or 'cross-handed') rather than their right hand.

The reason why cross-handed putting can be beneficial is because it's easier to keep the left wrist firm during a putting stroke. With a right hand lower grip on the putter there is a tendency to break the wrists a bit at impact, thereby making distance control more difficult to judge and accuracy less than desirable. Additionally, cross-handed putting grips set the shoulders a bit more level at address, which encourages a more even stroke on the ball and through the impact zone.

A beginning golfer should experiment with both the right hand lower and the left hand lower method to determine what works best for them. It is advisable to avoid the unconventional type of putter grips unless nothing else seems to be working.

For every shot in golf that is not a putt, there is a standard grip the golfer should impart on the club (with a couple of subtle exceptions). The right hand will always be lower than the left for this grip. Whether a golfer chooses a baseball grip (hands separate but touching), an interlock grip (right pinky interlocked between the forefinger and middle finger of the left hand), or an overlap grip (right pinky rests above the crook between the right forefinger and middle finger) is up to the individual - with the recommendation that better golfers generally use an overlap or interlock grip. The baseball grip might be more appropriate for children (because it feels more natural to them) or seniors (because they are looking to use more hand action due to decreased shoulder turn).

The left hand should always be placed on the grip before the right hand. The left thumb should be flat along the grip, but just right of center (so that the first two knuckles of the hand are visible). Most beginners put the thumb right down the middle of the grip, but this makes it too difficult to properly rotate the clubhead as it comes in to contact with the ball (often resulting in slices). It also puts the club in a bad position at the top of the backswing which makes it difficult to return the clubhead to square when it makes contact with the ball. If the hand is rotated clockwise a bit so that the left thumb is a bit right of center, the V that is formed by the thumb and forefinger will point between the chin and the right shoulder. This will allow the club to get set in a square position at the top of the backswing, with the left thumb directly under and supporting the club, and will allow for the clubhead to naturally rotate through the ball.

After the left hand is set in a good position on the grip, the right hand should be set with the left thumb set along the lifeline of the right hand. The right hand should grip the club more in the fingers than the hand (whereas the left hand grip is more along the lifeline in the palm). Again, the V that is formed by the right forefinger and thumb should point between the chin and right shoulder, the exact same direction the V from the left hand points.

Although the thumbs and hands are in slightly different positions on the conventional grip than they are on the putting grip, the back of the left hand and the right palm should still point along the target line.

Some basic rules of golf

Do you have to follow the rules when you play golf? Not necessarily, but it's good to at least know a few of the basics in case you ever get serious enough about the game to compete on any level. Here is a summary of some of the basic rules of golf.

A golfer must use the same ball for the entire hole

The ball you tee off with must be played out to the finish of that hole. The only time this is not true is if the ball goes out of bounds or is lost. Also, if a ball becomes so damaged or cut up that it is deemed 'unplayable', a new ball can be played (providing your playing partners or rules officials agree). Switching balls between holes is ok.

It's ok to tee off up to two club lengths behind the tee markers

You don't have to tee off right between the tee markers, the ball may be teed up up to two driver club lengths behind them. However, the ball may never be teed up even slightly ahead of the tee markers. Additionally, it's ok to stand outside of the tee markers when taking your stance as long as the ball is in between them.

If a ball goes out of bounds the golfer must take a penalty stroke and hit again from the original spot

If you think your ball had even the slightest possibility of going out of bounds and it is not visible in bounds, it is always best to hit a provisional (second) shot in case the first one is in fact out of bounds. Otherwise the golfer will have to trudge back to their original spot if they reach the spot where they thought their ball was and it is determined to be o.b. If a ball is hit out of bounds off the tee, the golfer must take a penalty stroke and tee off again (hitting their third shot rather than their second because of the penalty).

*Out of bounds stakes are white. If any part of the ball is in bounds, it is ok to play, even if you have to stand out of bounds (although removing the stakes is not permissible). A golfer has five minutes to look for a ball, then it is deemed 'lost' and must be played as if it is out of bounds. Again, if you think a ball could be lost, hit a provisional ball.

*When playing a provisional ball, the golfer must announce they are playing a provisional. If the original ball is in fact found after hitting a provisional, it is ok to play the original ball.

If you meant to hit a shot but whiffed the ball, it counts as a stroke

The honors system comes in to play a bit on this one, because often times a whiff can be played off as a practice swing. However, it is a bit more obvious than one may think. When one witnesses the whiff, it is usually pretty evident that the golfer meant to hit the ball. So, suck it up and admit it was a whiff, then hunker down and get the clubhead on the ball on the next shot.

Yellow stake water hazards

This would be a body of water that you have to hit over on the way to the green. If it goes in the water hazard, you have to take a penalty stroke and drop the ball along the line it went in on, as far back on that line as you want.

Red stake water hazards (lateral water hazard)

These usually run parallel to the hole on either side of the fairway. If the ball goes in you must take a penalty stroke and drop the ball within two club lengths of where the ball entered the hazard (on the opposite side of the hazard but no closer to the hole).

*On both yellow and red stake hazards, if the ball is playable in the hazard, it is ok to play the ball with no penalty, providing you don't touch the ball to the water or any part of the hazard before making your swing (or you would incur a one stroke penalty). This means you also can't ground the club in a sand trap before making a swing, because a sand trap is also deemed a 'hazard'.

There are three options for an unplayable lie (must take a penalty stroke for all three)

1. Drop within two club-lengths of the spot where the ball lies, no closer to the hole.

2. Proceed under the out of bounds rule (return to the original spot).

3. Drop as far back as you want from the point where the ball is, keeping that point between you and the hole.

On the green:

If a ball on the green hits another ball after it is putted, it is a two stroke penalty for the person that hit the putt. If it is your ball that is hit, there is no penalty and you must replace the ball as close to the original spot as possible (the lesson here is to always ask another player to mark their ball if you think there is a slight possibility that your ball could hit it).

If a ball is putted on the green and it hits the flagstick, it is a two stroke penalty.

Cart paths:

If a ball is on a cart path, the golfer may choose to drop the ball up to one club length away from the cart path, no closer to the hole (with no penalty).

Hopefully these basic rules will help (should you ever choose to actually play by the rules). Golf is an easy game to cheat at, but remember you are only cheating yourself if you do!

Club selection for beginners

In order to get good at golf, you have to know which club to grab for any situation on the course. For someone new to the game, it can be extremely confusing determining what each club is for, and why there are so many in the bag. They will likely know what a putter is for, and (maybe) what a driver is for, but the twelve clubs in between are pretty much a mystery.

So, we have (a maximum of) fourteen clubs in the bag. All of these clubs have a different 'loft', or angle. The least lofted club is the putter, which has only a couple of degrees of loft, and the most lofted club is the sand wedge, which could have as much as sixty-eight degrees of loft (although most sand wedges average more like fifty-six degrees).

The reason the putter has almost no loft is because the intent is to get the ball rolling immediately, without the ball going up in the air. The putter does have a couple of degrees of loft because this helps to get the ball rolling more smoothly off the face of the club, without popping or bouncing off of it.

Shots that are closest to the green but not on the green (chip shots) require a lot of loft but not the most. The idea with these shots is to get the ball on the green on a lower trajectory and rolling the majority of the way on the green rather than flying in the air. The best plan is to take a club with just enough loft to get the ball on the green just past the fringe and rolling the rest of the way. For example, if a ball is right next to the green (a couple of feet away from the fringe) and the pin is set on the opposite side of the green, a seven iron might be an appropriate club selection because this will pop the ball over the fringe, get it on the green on a low trajectory and rolling towards the pin.

If the ball is a bit further away from the green (say ten feet or so) and there is not as much green to work with, a pitching wedge might be a good club selection, because this will have a bit more loft to it, allowing the ball to fly a little higher and land a bit softer (translating to the ball flying further in the air and not rolling as much on the green). If the ball is even further away (twenty to sixty yards for the average golfer) then a sand wedge is probably the best option, because the ball should fly on an even higher trajectory and roll the least amount when it lands, spending the majority of its time in the air and very little rolling on the green. One can pretty much aim right for the pin, or just before it, with the sand wedge.

The shots explained above (shots from approximately sixty yards and in) comprise the 'short game' in golf. These shots require some creativity and a lot of touch and should be practiced often. Club selection will depend not only on the proximity to the green but also where the pin is on the green. Almost all clubs in the bag can and should be used for the short game. Practice different shots with different clubs and determine what works best in each situation, following the premise that the more green one has to work with, the less lofted club should be used in order to maximize the roll on the green.

Shots that are even further away from the green (sixty to two hundred and twenty yards for the average golfer) are much more cut and dry, because the golfer will be performing a 'full swing' rather than the partial swing required for the short game. The rule here is simple, the closer to the green, the more lofted club should be selected. A good benchmark is to take one less lofted club for every ten to fifteen yards further away from the green (one hundred yards away may require a nine iron while one hundred and twelve yards away may require an eight iron.. one hundred and eighty yards away may require a five wood while one hundred and ninety five yards may require a three wood).

In summary, one should get creative and experiment with different clubs when practicing the short game, and also go to a driving range to determine approximately how far each club is hit when performing a full swing.