We would all like to take our best golf swing, put it in a bottle, seal it up, and then uncork that bottle whenever we needed to use that swing. Unfortunately, we can't bottle our best swing. All we can do is practice diligently and try to build a 'repeatable' swing to the best of our ability.
A main goal of practice should be to ultimately get to where the swing is more 'automatic'. There is no shortcut to getting there, there's just a whole lot of repetition and training of the muscle memory via practicing (similar to a toddler training themselves to walk - once they get it, they've got it). The 'getting to automatic' phase of learning the golf swing can be incredibly frustrating, but the beginner must remind themselves that they are getting closer with each ball they hit, regardless of whether solid contact was achieved or the ball shanked off the hosel. Remember, we often learn more from our mistakes than our success.
So, what is the quickest and most efficient way to 'get to automatic'? I believe it has a whole lot to do with tempo, as if we don't have the same tempo with each swing then it becomes incredibly difficult to hit solid, repeatable shots. Golfers should try to 'swing to a cadence' in order to achieve a good repeatable tempo.
It should be noted that most golfers (especially beginners) try to swing the club too hard and too fast, as if they were in a hurry to hit the ball and get the swing over with. They often need to be reminded that it is a golf 'swing' not a 'hit at the golf ball'. Slowing down is almost always good advice, no matter what the golfer's skill level is. Remember that the muscles in the arms and upper body have very little to do with achieving distance; rather, the lower body and hips should initiate, then dictate the downswing. The arms and hands should simply follow along as a result of the body uncoiling towards the target. When this is done properly, all the stored energy, or 'centrifugal force', created as a result of the uncoiling motion will cause the clubhead to reach maximum speed at the proper time (the moment of contact). That being said, once the golfer learns to start the backswing slower and start the downswing slower, it's time to 'pick a tempo'.
Choosing your tempo is quite easy. You simply count '1,2,3' on your backswing and '1,2,3' on your downswing, or something to that effect. Obviously, you don't have to say this out-loud; just 'think' it in your mind as you swing. You may think '1,2,3' is too long to count for a backswing or downswing, especially if you are used to rushing it, but remember that slowing down is almost always beneficial. I used to say 'Fred-die' on my backswing and 'Cou-ples' on my downswing, but this was too easy to rush because there are only two syllables in each word. I now say 'Ser-gi-o' on my backswing and 'Gar-ci-a' on the downswing, and I find this cadence slows me down to where I should be.
It may be that you do have a faster swing, as some pros have very fast swings, too (Corey Pavin comes to mind). If this is the case then you may want to count '1,2' back, '1,2' down or use the 'Fre-die Cou-ples' cadence when you swing.
The point is to create a mental device to draw upon that will make repetition easier. This is most beneficial in 'pressure' type situations (think: 1st tee on a busy day and you're playing with your father in law for the first time and he's a scratch player), as these are the times when a golfer is most likely to 'rush' the swing (maybe in order to get it over with!). If the golfer takes a deep breath and utilizes their 'mental tempo device' they will be much more likely to swing smoothly and less likely to try and force it.
Showing posts with label beginner golf. Show all posts
Showing posts with label beginner golf. Show all posts
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Saturday, January 3, 2009
Extra distance
We all want to hit the ball further. If we learn to hit it further, then we want to learn how to hit it further than that. No matter what our skill level is, we're all on that never-ending quest for those elusive extra few yards.
There is a popular misconception amongst beginner golfers that added strength in the arms and upper body will equate to added distance from their golf shots. We see Tiger Woods on TV and we see a guy who has the physique of a professional bodybuilder and we think, "Oh, ok, so I'll hit the weights and build my upper body up like that, then I'll be able to hit it 340 yards like him!"
Not exactly.
Extra distance comes from faster ball speed, which comes from faster swing speed, which comes from rapid clearing, or 'un-coiling' of the hips, which comes from a proper pivot onto the right leg during the backswing and a transfer of weight to the left leg to start the downswing.
Aside from the shoulders turning, the upper body is more or less just along for the ride. This is especially true on the downswing, when the arms swing down and through simply as a result of the hips clearing and body un-coiling. Ideally the arms should almost feel like dead-weight as gravity drops them down and through the impact zone.
Therefore, more important than having a strong upper body is having a strong lower body and 'core', and a flexible upper body. Added strength in the legs will allow for a good foundation (for balance) and added abdominal (or 'core') strength will translate into a powerful uncoiling motion and transfer of weight to the golfer's lead side. This is not to say 'completely ignore weight training on the upper body'. A good balanced workout is always advised (you don't want to look like you have the legs of Emmit Smith and the upper body of Pee-Wee Herman). Make sure to incorporate stretching excersizes into your routine. Increased flexibility in the upper body will allow the golfer to make a good turn with the shoulders and obtain that 'loosy-goosy' feeling which is so important.
Any time that one makes a conscious effort to hit the ball harder by swinging faster with the arms, a 'casting' motion takes place (which means the golfer is bringing the club down too fast from the top). The result is generally a nasty pull or a wicked slice. One is better off starting the downswing in a lazy fashion, making sure that all the stored energy is released in the impact zone (as the club head travels into and through the ball).
The classic drill that confirms that the golfer's swing is reaching maximum speed at the correct moment is the 'flip the club' drill. Simply flip the club around, hold on to the shaft just below the clubhead, make a normal swing, and listen to where the "whoosh" sound occurs. If you hear the "whoosh" right after you begin the downswing, you are casting the club, or rushing it from the top with your arms. If you hear the "whoosh" at the impact zone, you are making the correct motion (allowing the clubhead to fall down and through the bottom of the swing arc as a result of the clearing of the hips and arms following).
Think about when you throw a frisbee. If you just flick it with your arm and hand it will fly a short distance. If you make a big coiling motion with your shoulders and hips as you bring the fisbee back, then uncoil your hips and move your weight to the front side before you fling it, it will travel a considerably further distance. The same is true of the golf swing. I love the feeling of 'imagining you are getting ready to throw a frisbee with your left hand' on the downswing. This pulling motion with the left side results in a powerful motion through the ball.
The following tips and swing thoughts should also help get you more distance:
> Drive your knees towards the target during the downswing, this thrusting motion helps generate club head speed.
> Delay the 'uncocking of the wrists' as long as possible. This keeps the club head square through impact and lends to a proper and powerful 'release' as the club head whips through the ball.
> Fire the right side of the body through aggressively during the downswing. This helps the hips clear faster and gets the body weight moving down and through.
> Have a light grip (a 6 on a scale from 1 to 10). This will help prevent the upper body and arm muscles getting too involved and trying to manipulate the club on the downswing, thereby encouraging gravity to do its magic.
> Assure that you have the right hand rolling over the left hand through impact. This will help prevent the weak slice, which is a distance robber.
> Impliment a slight foward press to start the backswing. This helps get the momentum moving in the right direction and allows for a proper weight shift which translates to added power.
> Think big. Visualize a target further down the fairway than you think you can hit it, and try and hit it there. The more you believe that you will hit it far the more likely you are to do so. Confidence and the power of positive thinking are undeniable forces that lead to success in any endeavor.
> Create a big, wide arc with the club away from and around the body (especially with the driver), separating the hands from the body a considerable amount during the backswing. This big motion will help create the momentum that is required for clubhead speed coming into the ball.
> Have the feeling that your joints and limbs are 'oily' as you swing the club back and through. This one is from Sam Snead. It's a great swing thought and it assists in alleviating tension in the upper body.
> During your backswing and downswing, visualize the ball 'exploding' off of the club head after impact and as the club travels down the intended target line. Again, the power of positive thinking.
> Favor a draw. A ball that travels right to left will fly on a lower trajectory, thereby bouncing and rolling further than a high fade. Additionally, the draw imparts topspin on the ball, whereas the fade creates backspin. The ball will bore through the air and again, the ball will bounce and roll further. Unless the wind is helping you big-time, the draw will get you more yardage.
> Have a strong grip and a slightly closed stance. These will assist in hitting a draw.
> As you swing the club head into the ball, think of attacking the 'inside half' of the ball. Assure that your right elbow is brushing by your body on the downswing and that the club is on a flat enough plane. Wrists 'brush' after the club releases. More 'draw helpers'.
> Favor a shorter back swing as opposed to a long back swing. This creates more 'torque' in the hips and shoulders and allows right side to power through aggressively.
Hopefully these tips help you out. If you have any comments or suggestions please contact me anytime.
There is a popular misconception amongst beginner golfers that added strength in the arms and upper body will equate to added distance from their golf shots. We see Tiger Woods on TV and we see a guy who has the physique of a professional bodybuilder and we think, "Oh, ok, so I'll hit the weights and build my upper body up like that, then I'll be able to hit it 340 yards like him!"
Not exactly.
Extra distance comes from faster ball speed, which comes from faster swing speed, which comes from rapid clearing, or 'un-coiling' of the hips, which comes from a proper pivot onto the right leg during the backswing and a transfer of weight to the left leg to start the downswing.
Aside from the shoulders turning, the upper body is more or less just along for the ride. This is especially true on the downswing, when the arms swing down and through simply as a result of the hips clearing and body un-coiling. Ideally the arms should almost feel like dead-weight as gravity drops them down and through the impact zone.
Therefore, more important than having a strong upper body is having a strong lower body and 'core', and a flexible upper body. Added strength in the legs will allow for a good foundation (for balance) and added abdominal (or 'core') strength will translate into a powerful uncoiling motion and transfer of weight to the golfer's lead side. This is not to say 'completely ignore weight training on the upper body'. A good balanced workout is always advised (you don't want to look like you have the legs of Emmit Smith and the upper body of Pee-Wee Herman). Make sure to incorporate stretching excersizes into your routine. Increased flexibility in the upper body will allow the golfer to make a good turn with the shoulders and obtain that 'loosy-goosy' feeling which is so important.
Any time that one makes a conscious effort to hit the ball harder by swinging faster with the arms, a 'casting' motion takes place (which means the golfer is bringing the club down too fast from the top). The result is generally a nasty pull or a wicked slice. One is better off starting the downswing in a lazy fashion, making sure that all the stored energy is released in the impact zone (as the club head travels into and through the ball).
The classic drill that confirms that the golfer's swing is reaching maximum speed at the correct moment is the 'flip the club' drill. Simply flip the club around, hold on to the shaft just below the clubhead, make a normal swing, and listen to where the "whoosh" sound occurs. If you hear the "whoosh" right after you begin the downswing, you are casting the club, or rushing it from the top with your arms. If you hear the "whoosh" at the impact zone, you are making the correct motion (allowing the clubhead to fall down and through the bottom of the swing arc as a result of the clearing of the hips and arms following).
Think about when you throw a frisbee. If you just flick it with your arm and hand it will fly a short distance. If you make a big coiling motion with your shoulders and hips as you bring the fisbee back, then uncoil your hips and move your weight to the front side before you fling it, it will travel a considerably further distance. The same is true of the golf swing. I love the feeling of 'imagining you are getting ready to throw a frisbee with your left hand' on the downswing. This pulling motion with the left side results in a powerful motion through the ball.
The following tips and swing thoughts should also help get you more distance:
> Drive your knees towards the target during the downswing, this thrusting motion helps generate club head speed.
> Delay the 'uncocking of the wrists' as long as possible. This keeps the club head square through impact and lends to a proper and powerful 'release' as the club head whips through the ball.
> Fire the right side of the body through aggressively during the downswing. This helps the hips clear faster and gets the body weight moving down and through.
> Have a light grip (a 6 on a scale from 1 to 10). This will help prevent the upper body and arm muscles getting too involved and trying to manipulate the club on the downswing, thereby encouraging gravity to do its magic.
> Assure that you have the right hand rolling over the left hand through impact. This will help prevent the weak slice, which is a distance robber.
> Impliment a slight foward press to start the backswing. This helps get the momentum moving in the right direction and allows for a proper weight shift which translates to added power.
> Think big. Visualize a target further down the fairway than you think you can hit it, and try and hit it there. The more you believe that you will hit it far the more likely you are to do so. Confidence and the power of positive thinking are undeniable forces that lead to success in any endeavor.
> Create a big, wide arc with the club away from and around the body (especially with the driver), separating the hands from the body a considerable amount during the backswing. This big motion will help create the momentum that is required for clubhead speed coming into the ball.
> Have the feeling that your joints and limbs are 'oily' as you swing the club back and through. This one is from Sam Snead. It's a great swing thought and it assists in alleviating tension in the upper body.
> During your backswing and downswing, visualize the ball 'exploding' off of the club head after impact and as the club travels down the intended target line. Again, the power of positive thinking.
> Favor a draw. A ball that travels right to left will fly on a lower trajectory, thereby bouncing and rolling further than a high fade. Additionally, the draw imparts topspin on the ball, whereas the fade creates backspin. The ball will bore through the air and again, the ball will bounce and roll further. Unless the wind is helping you big-time, the draw will get you more yardage.
> Have a strong grip and a slightly closed stance. These will assist in hitting a draw.
> As you swing the club head into the ball, think of attacking the 'inside half' of the ball. Assure that your right elbow is brushing by your body on the downswing and that the club is on a flat enough plane. Wrists 'brush' after the club releases. More 'draw helpers'.
> Favor a shorter back swing as opposed to a long back swing. This creates more 'torque' in the hips and shoulders and allows right side to power through aggressively.
Hopefully these tips help you out. If you have any comments or suggestions please contact me anytime.
Friday, January 2, 2009
Different club, different swing
Golfers are often told to 'use the same swing for every club'. I believe this is poor advice and will lead to wild ball flight.
If one considers the angle of the shaft at set-up, the longest club (driver) is on a much flatter plane than that of the shortest club (sand wedge). Therefore, the club must be swung in a way so that the plane of the shaft is maintained throughout the back swing and follow through.
So, if the golfer takes a driver and tries to use the same swing as they do for their sand wedge, they will be taking the club back and delivering it through on too steep of a plane. This will lead to a gigantic slice, and I think it's one of the main reasons that people struggle with the driver and the less lofted clubs.
The reverse is true. If the golfer takes the sand wedge and attempts to use the same swing that they use for their driver, it will be on too flat of a plane and they are likely to pull the ball left.
To expand on this, the initial move away from the ball with a sand wedge entails basically bringing the club head straight up and back in front of the body. Whereas, the first move with the driver is to bring the club head back very low to the ground for a foot or so and then on a wide arc around and behind the body. Even if the golfer is a 'two plane' swinger, the driver is brought back on a much flatter, wider plane than the sand wedge.
This is one of the reasons why ball position for the more lofted clubs should be played further back in the golfers stance (towards the back foot). The ball should be placed right in the middle of the stance for a sand wedge (or just slightly back of center), and move towards the front foot as loft decreases (culminating in the driver, when the ball should be played just inside the left heel). The more lofted club one is using, the steeper the swing and the bigger the divot. The most lofted club requires that the golfer hit more on the downswing, with the swing arc bottoming out well after contact and under the turf. As loft decreases this move becomes more subtle (huge divot for a sand wedge, pretty big divot for an 8 iron, shallow divot for a five iron, little or no divot for a fairway wood).
I think that people generally swing the driver and the less lofted clubs on too steep of a plane and the sand wedge and more lofted clubs on too flat of a plane, because they are trying to use the same swing with every club. This is one of the reasons why golfers have so much trouble with longer clubs and tend to slice more with them (another reason being that loft negates side-spin, so the ball is always going to go straighter with a more lofted club as the ball is generally spinning backwards rather than sideways, even on slight mis-hits. The margin for error is much smaller with less loft). On the other end of the spectrum, golfers have trouble getting the ball high enough in the air with the more lofted clubs as they are not swinging on a steep enough plane or hitting down on the ball enough.
Think sand wedge 'steep', driver 'sweep' as a general rule.
If one considers the angle of the shaft at set-up, the longest club (driver) is on a much flatter plane than that of the shortest club (sand wedge). Therefore, the club must be swung in a way so that the plane of the shaft is maintained throughout the back swing and follow through.
So, if the golfer takes a driver and tries to use the same swing as they do for their sand wedge, they will be taking the club back and delivering it through on too steep of a plane. This will lead to a gigantic slice, and I think it's one of the main reasons that people struggle with the driver and the less lofted clubs.
The reverse is true. If the golfer takes the sand wedge and attempts to use the same swing that they use for their driver, it will be on too flat of a plane and they are likely to pull the ball left.
To expand on this, the initial move away from the ball with a sand wedge entails basically bringing the club head straight up and back in front of the body. Whereas, the first move with the driver is to bring the club head back very low to the ground for a foot or so and then on a wide arc around and behind the body. Even if the golfer is a 'two plane' swinger, the driver is brought back on a much flatter, wider plane than the sand wedge.
This is one of the reasons why ball position for the more lofted clubs should be played further back in the golfers stance (towards the back foot). The ball should be placed right in the middle of the stance for a sand wedge (or just slightly back of center), and move towards the front foot as loft decreases (culminating in the driver, when the ball should be played just inside the left heel). The more lofted club one is using, the steeper the swing and the bigger the divot. The most lofted club requires that the golfer hit more on the downswing, with the swing arc bottoming out well after contact and under the turf. As loft decreases this move becomes more subtle (huge divot for a sand wedge, pretty big divot for an 8 iron, shallow divot for a five iron, little or no divot for a fairway wood).
I think that people generally swing the driver and the less lofted clubs on too steep of a plane and the sand wedge and more lofted clubs on too flat of a plane, because they are trying to use the same swing with every club. This is one of the reasons why golfers have so much trouble with longer clubs and tend to slice more with them (another reason being that loft negates side-spin, so the ball is always going to go straighter with a more lofted club as the ball is generally spinning backwards rather than sideways, even on slight mis-hits. The margin for error is much smaller with less loft). On the other end of the spectrum, golfers have trouble getting the ball high enough in the air with the more lofted clubs as they are not swinging on a steep enough plane or hitting down on the ball enough.
Think sand wedge 'steep', driver 'sweep' as a general rule.
Thursday, January 1, 2009
Teaching the chip shot to beginners
"So, what would you like to get out of these golf lessons? What are some of your 'golfing goals'?" The instructor asks the new student.
"Um, I don't know!" The student replies without much thought.
"Are you sure? Nothing comes to mind?" The instructor persists.
"Well, uh.. I guess to hit it far and to learn how to hit my driver better?"
We've all heard this one before. It's a fairly common theme.
The student may not have wanted to admit it because they know, even at their skill level, that learning how to hit it far and how to hit the driver well are bi-products of learning smaller shots with more lofted irons first, and building towards the 'Big Dog'. However, patience is a virtue that not all of us possess (guilty as charged, your honor), and it's just human nature to want to hit it far.
Convincing the beginner student that the best way to learn the game is from the green backwards is usually not too challenging, as the student places quite a bit of trust in the instructor before the two even meet. Therefore, the instructor should take the student to the practice green for the first one or even the first two lessons and get a good short game foundation established.
If the student is signed up for a series of lessons - the first lesson should be spent entirely on putting. The drills practiced should encompass primarily 'distance control' exercises (such as putting to the fringe from different areas on the green to get a feel for 'how hard a ball needs to be hit to get it to stop at a certain area'). As we all know, distance control trumps 'reading the line well' in terms of putting success, especially for the beginner. After a good amount of distance control drills have been completed, the instructor should then introduce 'reading a putt' and show how the student how to line up to hit a putt to the apex of the break (the spot where the ball stops moving one way and starts moving towards the other). This is a good time to mention the importance of aim/ alignment.
At the end of the first lesson, the instructor should mention that the next lesson will be devoted to the chip shot. First the instructor needs to define what that shot is, then give a demonstration with a pitching wedge, mentioning how similar the chipping motion is to the putting stroke (rock the shoulders, light grip, keep the rest of the body still, keep the eyes down until after contact, don't break the wrists, and focus on distance control). Playing the ball back in the stance should be encouraged as well.
Bringing up things like 'having an open stance, accelerating through impact, hitting the ball on a descending blow, lagging the club head behind the hands through impact, leading with the left arm, and opening the club face for more loft', should not yet be introduced to the beginner. This will cause sensory overload and tension. Give them a chance to try a couple of shots before the first lesson is over.
For the second lesson, give a quick verbal refresher on the putting stroke, then transition back into the chip shot by again mentioning the similarities between the two shots. Then tell the student that the chip shot is an incredibly important shot to practice (in my opinion it is the most important shot for beginners to practice and feel comfortable with before moving on).
Reasons why the chip shot is so important for beginners to learn and practice diligently include:
-The motion mimics the putting motion, thereby reinforcing a good putting stroke.
-The golfer establishes a good feel for contact through repetition. The more this action is repeated the better.
-The golfer is unknowingly practicing hitting the ball on a descending blow, setting a great foundation for the full swing.
-The golfer is also unknowingly practicing a slightly delayed release of the hands, again setting an excellent foundation for later.
-The golfer is practicing the most important small section of the full swing, the contact point.
-The golfer is practicing the 'one-piece-takeaway' that is the start of a good back swing.
-When the golfer practices the chip shot with different lofts (and this is where it gets exciting), they are not only practicing chipping with different trajectories (which is a good idea in my opinion - I am an advocate of using as little loft as it takes to get the ball on the green and rolling over as much green as possible), but they are practicing how 'club-to-ball' contact feels with different clubs. I believe that if this is introduced on the practice green, the golfer will transition from lofted to less lofted clubs easier on the driving range.
Whichever loft they are using for chipping, make sure the student picks a specific target spot where they want the ball to land on the green in order for it to roll towards the hole (laying down a golf towel as the target spot works well for this) rather than thinking of the hole as their target spot. Be very encouraging and tell them that just getting it on the green is a success as a beginning golfer.
When the student is finally taken to the range, have them practice some chipping strokes without a ball at first, relaying the importance of 'brushing the ground' with every stroke. Encourage 'the club head thumping the ground every time' and introduce the concept of hitting down on the ball with more lofted clubs. Then, have them practice hitting chip shots with a pitching wedge and transition to the pitch shot and towards the full swing.
The more a golfer practices chipping, the better their entire game gets. What's so great is that practicing the short game is always free at the practice green, in the park, or in the living room at home (just make sure to use practice balls in the living room - I learned this one the hard way).
"Um, I don't know!" The student replies without much thought.
"Are you sure? Nothing comes to mind?" The instructor persists.
"Well, uh.. I guess to hit it far and to learn how to hit my driver better?"
We've all heard this one before. It's a fairly common theme.
The student may not have wanted to admit it because they know, even at their skill level, that learning how to hit it far and how to hit the driver well are bi-products of learning smaller shots with more lofted irons first, and building towards the 'Big Dog'. However, patience is a virtue that not all of us possess (guilty as charged, your honor), and it's just human nature to want to hit it far.
Convincing the beginner student that the best way to learn the game is from the green backwards is usually not too challenging, as the student places quite a bit of trust in the instructor before the two even meet. Therefore, the instructor should take the student to the practice green for the first one or even the first two lessons and get a good short game foundation established.
If the student is signed up for a series of lessons - the first lesson should be spent entirely on putting. The drills practiced should encompass primarily 'distance control' exercises (such as putting to the fringe from different areas on the green to get a feel for 'how hard a ball needs to be hit to get it to stop at a certain area'). As we all know, distance control trumps 'reading the line well' in terms of putting success, especially for the beginner. After a good amount of distance control drills have been completed, the instructor should then introduce 'reading a putt' and show how the student how to line up to hit a putt to the apex of the break (the spot where the ball stops moving one way and starts moving towards the other). This is a good time to mention the importance of aim/ alignment.
At the end of the first lesson, the instructor should mention that the next lesson will be devoted to the chip shot. First the instructor needs to define what that shot is, then give a demonstration with a pitching wedge, mentioning how similar the chipping motion is to the putting stroke (rock the shoulders, light grip, keep the rest of the body still, keep the eyes down until after contact, don't break the wrists, and focus on distance control). Playing the ball back in the stance should be encouraged as well.
Bringing up things like 'having an open stance, accelerating through impact, hitting the ball on a descending blow, lagging the club head behind the hands through impact, leading with the left arm, and opening the club face for more loft', should not yet be introduced to the beginner. This will cause sensory overload and tension. Give them a chance to try a couple of shots before the first lesson is over.
For the second lesson, give a quick verbal refresher on the putting stroke, then transition back into the chip shot by again mentioning the similarities between the two shots. Then tell the student that the chip shot is an incredibly important shot to practice (in my opinion it is the most important shot for beginners to practice and feel comfortable with before moving on).
Reasons why the chip shot is so important for beginners to learn and practice diligently include:
-The motion mimics the putting motion, thereby reinforcing a good putting stroke.
-The golfer establishes a good feel for contact through repetition. The more this action is repeated the better.
-The golfer is unknowingly practicing hitting the ball on a descending blow, setting a great foundation for the full swing.
-The golfer is also unknowingly practicing a slightly delayed release of the hands, again setting an excellent foundation for later.
-The golfer is practicing the most important small section of the full swing, the contact point.
-The golfer is practicing the 'one-piece-takeaway' that is the start of a good back swing.
-When the golfer practices the chip shot with different lofts (and this is where it gets exciting), they are not only practicing chipping with different trajectories (which is a good idea in my opinion - I am an advocate of using as little loft as it takes to get the ball on the green and rolling over as much green as possible), but they are practicing how 'club-to-ball' contact feels with different clubs. I believe that if this is introduced on the practice green, the golfer will transition from lofted to less lofted clubs easier on the driving range.
Whichever loft they are using for chipping, make sure the student picks a specific target spot where they want the ball to land on the green in order for it to roll towards the hole (laying down a golf towel as the target spot works well for this) rather than thinking of the hole as their target spot. Be very encouraging and tell them that just getting it on the green is a success as a beginning golfer.
When the student is finally taken to the range, have them practice some chipping strokes without a ball at first, relaying the importance of 'brushing the ground' with every stroke. Encourage 'the club head thumping the ground every time' and introduce the concept of hitting down on the ball with more lofted clubs. Then, have them practice hitting chip shots with a pitching wedge and transition to the pitch shot and towards the full swing.
The more a golfer practices chipping, the better their entire game gets. What's so great is that practicing the short game is always free at the practice green, in the park, or in the living room at home (just make sure to use practice balls in the living room - I learned this one the hard way).
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